This post tells you everything you need to know about the battery. We’ll talk about different types, features, charging, lifespans, and our recommendations for batteries and chargers.
A battery is a high capacity lithium ion rechargeable battery. Their proper name is a “ cell”. The cell has voltage of 3.7v and has between mAh and mAh (mili-amp-hours). The is physically larger than an battery, and AA/AAA batteries.
s may have a voltage range between 2.5 volts and 4.2 volts, or a charging voltage of 4.2 volts, but the nominal voltage of a standard is 3.7 volts, just like the s batteries.
There are two types; protected and unprotected. We absolutely recommend protected batteries. Protected batteries generally have a button top. Unprotected s typically have a flat top.
The average battery charge time is about 4 hours. Charge time can vary with amperage and voltage of the charger and the battery type.
protected batteries have an electronic circuit. The circuit is embedded in the cell packaging (battery casing) that protects the cell from “over charge”, heat or “over discharge”, over current and short circuit. A protected battery is safer than an unprotected battery (less likely to overheat, burst or start on fire).
Unprotected batteries are cheaper, but we do not recommend their use. Unprotected batteries should only be used where the load/draw and charging is externally monitored and controlled. The protected batteries normally have a “button top”, but check the specs to make sure.
If a battery is damaged or looks corroded or appears to be leaking, get rid of it at a battery recycling center. Be safe.
See “Battery Recycling – How to Recycle Different Battery Types and Corroded Batteries Safely”.
A 3.7v a mAh stores about 3 aH to max of 5 aH. It can store about 15 to 20 watt hours. A small air conditioning unit that can cool about BTU uses about watts per hour. So it would take more than 74 of these batteries to run the air conditioner for 1 hour.
In comparison you would need three 12v 40 amp car batteries. But 74 are smaller than three car batteries.
Recharge cycles vary and are limited. Think of it like a bucket. The trick is that the bucket also gets filled with other junk over time, so there is less room. As the battery is reused (recharged), the battery degrades due to oxidation and electro-chemical degradation.
This happens to any rechargeable battery such as an , , , , AA, AAA or even a car battery. They can only be recharged a limited number of times.
You want to select rechargeable batteries that can be recharged many times. We specifically recommend ’s because they have the ability to be recharged 300 to as many as times.
The way you recharge your battery impacts the life of the battery. If you can measure it, you want to deplete from 3.7v down it to about 3v before you recharge. If you are not sure, use the device until it indicates a battery needs to be replaced. For a flashlight, run it till the light is dim or goes out.
A good charger will tell you the voltage of the battery so you can eventually get a sense of the life of the battery in various devices. If you recharge too frequently you “use up” the life without a return.
Some people don’t let it dip below 3.3v (or even higher). Each brand and model of has different maximum cycles. So this is really a process of matching your device and usage to the life cycle of the battery.
Be aware that an battery that drops below 2.5v may “lock” the device so it can’t be used. The “lock” function happens in devices such as vaping devices.
Here is a list of 6 ways you can tell if you need to get rid of an (or other rechargeable battery). Look through these to determine if your is nearing the end of its life and needs to be retired:
These are the 6 signs your is dead and it is time to get a new one. If you ignore these warning signs you risk fire or even having the battery explode while being recharged.
A trick is to buy one or two similar s and mark them “new” with a Sharpe (or label them A, B, C, etc). Then use them and compare their voltage and discharge rates with the questionable s.
Basically you are comparing good vs unknown this way.
You can also gauge temperature this way. Charge both the new and unknown one to see how hot the new one compares to the older one you are unsure of.
There are a number of different chemical combinations for batteries. Nearly all batteries are Li-ion (Lithium Ion) or sub-variant such as LiNiMnCoO2 INR, LiCoO2 ICR or LiMn2O4 IMR. I have not seen Ni-Zn or Li-Po versions of a . If you come across either, please leave a link in the comments.
A battery might advertise: protected mode 3.7v mAh low self discharge. What does that all mean?
Flashlights, electronics, laptops, vaping, power tools and even some electric vehicles use s. Some high lumen flashlights such as the .
Laptops and other electronic devices use one or more ’s and have recharging electronics built in. ’s are also used in vaping (smoking) devices.
s are are generally Lithium Ion batteries. If you are familiar with electronics you can change out some battery packs manually, but be careful – using the wrong type of or using it incorrectly can cause a fire.
Nitecore NLRX available directly from Nitecore. This is an 3.7v mAh protected cell with a built-in USB-C charger.
Goto JOINSUN to know more.
It is a few dollars more, but it allows you to charge it on the go and not have to carry a dedicated charger.
The Orbtronic, Samsung, LG, Panasonic and Nitecore are good reliable rechargeable cells (batteries). Be sure to buy them from a reputable source such as Amazon, Battery Junction or direct from the manufacturer such as Nitecore.
We don’t use the lower voltage and amperage s, because they have lower amp hours and low peak wattage and lower sustained wattage. If you use a lower amperage , you might as well drop to a cheaper version of the device/battery.
We are willing to pay a few more dollars for the longer life, higher capacity and better quality.
The best battery charger is the Nitecore UMS4 Battery Charger because it can charge pretty much anything (it will be a bit slower charging up to 3amp but will charge just about anything.
Specifically, it supports: lithium ion , , , , , , , , (the is also known as RCR123), , and Ni-MH and Ni-Cd AA, AAA, AAAA, C rechargeable batteries. This is our favorite charger for the s, s and AA/AAA.
Note the UMS4 will NOT charge 1.6v/1.5v Ni-Zn AA batteries. We are testing the Xtar 1.5v rechargeable AA batteries and so far, we like them but they require a matching custom Xtar 1.5v AA charger.
The best flashlight is the Fenix PD36R. It is not cheap but it is durable and very bright, and has a pocket clip. The light level is lumens (the version is lumens) and it is water resistant to IPX68. There is no quick access to the strobe mode. Modes are listed below
The 2nd choice is the more expensive Olight Seeker 3 Pro . It is crazy bright. USB charging. The modes info is listed below.
We normally like Thrunite and Nitecore flashlights. The Thrunite T15 and Nitecore MH12s both support USB-C charging and both are VERY BRIGHT but both get HOT on highest brightness. Consider them if you want a moderately priced flashlight that uses batteries.
Are batteries better than ? A is basically a physically larger version of an . The voltage is the same, the wattage should be generally higher (but not always).
Best battery? We like the Nitecore NLRX with a runner ups being the Fenix, LEDLenser, and Samsung , 3.7v protected mode high drain (20amp) batteries are all decent alternatives.
Are batteries good? Depending on the manufacturer, yes. Stick with name brands from good suppliers.
Are all batteries the same?
Definitely not. The power (mAh) varies. They can be button top meaning “Protected”. Protected s have a tiny PCB – protection circuit board. The non-button top are Unprotected meaning no PCB and should only be used in devices that have protection circuits.
Some vary in SIZE also. A should be 21mm by 70mm but some vary and the worst ones vary a lot. Some have integrated USB chargers, some do not. There is also some variation in chemistry (materials) used to make the batteries.
Best battery charger? Many of the chargers will also charge the . You need to read the fine print to confirm.
We like the USB powered Nitecore UMS4 Battery Charger. It can charge: AAA, AA, C, D, , and rechargeable batteries using nearly any USB power source to charge your batteries. The UMS4 can use a USB crank, USB solar charger or the regular A/C USB adapters.
If you are ok with an AC power supply the OPUS BT C is outstanding. Providing high end features at a decent price.
Where can I buy batteries?
There are a number of places. Right now Amazon does not have a lot. Battery Junction and Nitecore have inventory.
Capacity: If you see anything above mah for a battery be suspicious. It is likely false advertising.
Protected vs Unprotected: Make sure you are comparing PROTECTED or UNPROTECTED. The electronics of the PROTECTED batteries adds cost. If it is really cheap it might be UNPROTECTED and not say it.
Weight Tip: If a weighs less than 60g (2.11oz) it is likely not good quality or is fake.
Source: Buy from reputable source and name brand manufacturer.
Shop Around: Always compare costs before you purchase. A good LG or Nitecore could be on sale, in high demand or out of stock somewhere and make a big difference in price.
Test One: When buying batteries – buy ONE before you buy multiple in case the size is not 100% correct. Some cheaper manufacturers don’t entirely follow the 21mm x 700mm specification. Even reputable manufacturers batteries may be consistently larger or smaller.
I am a novice flashaholic, having a few original Quarks, ZLs, and a MDC. These are all AA lights which I love.Batteries are cheap, just use whatever the light takes.... I really wouldn't put any effort into deciding otherwise.
In another thread I asked about finding a 5-6" long ~1" diam woods/trails light with more power. Something floody enough for no tunnel vision, but enough throw to ID things @ 50-100yds. Some suggestions were MH10v2 or MD2/Wildcat or D4V2 or Elzetta AVS bravo/charlie.
These would require stepping into the world of high power Lithiums of which I have no experience. Reading many articles here, most folks are happy with s, but mostly because they have a investment/experience with them. The seems to be the next gen of that size of battery, and I have found a few lights in the 700 format (SC700d, D4K1, Malkoff build with tube?, E07x, others?) that might fit my trails requirements.
So I was wondering:
For those of us just starting out, which high power lithium would you recommend investing in for the future?
Unprotected, flat top, high drain batteries only, protected cells won't work
The 719A, B35AM, FC-40, XHP70.3 HI, SFN-60, SFT-70, NTG50 are with the OP refle
1. Works with unprotected, flat top battery only (not inlcuded) The company is the world’s best What Is a Battery supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need. 2. <
Noctigon DM11 1* middle range thrower - LED Flashlights
An SST-40 in the DM11 would make for a very nice compact outdoors light able to light up a good distance but offer nice tint and runtimes with good sustained outputs.
Great info, I appreciate it!
tbh the only way you can know is to try some. Youtube reviews and just use Google to find other reviews are your best best bets.
Is there a source that compares all these emitter types and can help newbies narrow down a good neutral tint, and nice CRI? The emissar build page lists several options (SST, E21a, LH351D, W1, W2, etc). Likewise the Convoy has different choices dependent upon the series (and they have quite a few!).
Sorry for so many questions.
As a rule for max throw or max lumens you'll sacrifice tint and colour rendition. But I whole heartedly agree, once you've sampled a nice tinted light, you won't want to go back.
Small emitters usually make less lumens and throw more. Dedomed emitters also tend to throw more.
W2 is a nicer thrower, k only. In a big light beam is pencil like, in a smaller light it is quite acceptable. Good for throw and reasonable lumen output for such a small emitter.
W1 throws more than W2, but is worst tint IMO, more blue. Smaller beam and less lumens. I have a couple and I think the W2 is much better overall.
SST-40 is a nice big'ish LED. Good balance of throw and output and k is a nice looking beam. k can be a bit green however. Very good general purpose LED.
SST-20 is smaller and will offer more throw and less lumens in the same light. Also a nice balance for good all round general purpose. k high CRI is loverly IMO. Again higher K can be a bit green. There is a warmer tint, but Ive not tried it.
As a rule all of the Nichia's (219, 519, E21, etc) produce nice beams. But will make less lumens and less throw than the SST-40 and/or SST-20 as a rule.
I like the Samsung LH351D in my Manker MC01 at k and high CRI.
Quite a few other LEDs out there like XHP50.2, XHP 70.3 HI, FC40. All with pros and cons.
A lot of it comes down to what you intend to use the light for.
Cool lights make greens and browns look a bit nasty outside. Although too warm a tint can make whites indoors look a bit yellow or brown.
It comes down to personal preference. Given that I usually use my lights at night, I tend to prefer a warmer tint, something in the -k range, but that's just me. If color rendition is your main focus, then a 95+ CRI in a -k *should* give you the best spectrum on both the blues and reds, but I honestly DGAF if my high-CRI k is accurately representing the blues while I am taking out the trash or trying not to trip over roots walking in the woods. What I'm saying is don't stress too much about which emitter the light has. If you have the option, go with a high-CRI light, and choose the color temperature that you like best, but at the end of the day, it's just a flashlight, and it's better than being in the dark ????